Kundan jewellery is a traditional Indian technique of setting polished stones into a metal framework using thin gold foil.
Rooted in Rajasthan, Kundan remains a popular choice for bridal sets, festival wear, and statement necklaces. This guide explains what Kundan is, how it’s made, how it differs from related styles, and how to buy and care for it.
Quick overview
- Origin: Rajasthan and Mughal workshops in India.
- Technique: Stones fixed with gold foil (called kundan).
- Common pieces: Necklaces, chokers, earrings, maang tikkas, bangles and full bridal sets.
- Related terms: Jadau, Polki, Meenakari, Rajasthani jewellery, uncut diamonds.
History in brief
Kundan developed into a refined art form in royal courts where Persian and Indian design elements merged.
Artisans worked in family workshops to produce large, detailed sets for royal and aristocratic clients. Today Kundan combines that heritage with modern tastes, ranging from traditional heavy sets to lighter, wearable designs.
How Kundan jewellery is made (simple steps)
- Frame: The base is shaped from lac, silver or a light metal.
- Setting the stones: Stones—glass, coloured gems, semi-precious stones or polki (uncut diamonds)—sit in cavities on the frame.
- Applying gold foil: Thin strips of gold foil (the kundan) secure the stones from the front and add brightness.
- Finishing: Artisans often add meenakari (enamel) on the reverse for colour and contrast.
Because artisans set stones by hand, each piece shows subtle variations—a sign of authentic workmanship.
Kundan, Polki and Jadau — how they differ
- Kundan: Uses gold foil to secure stones. Stones may be glass, synthetic, or natural. Kundan highlights the foil around stones.
- Polki: Specifically uses uncut diamonds (polki). These pieces usually have higher value and simpler settings.
- Jadau: A broader term for embedding stones into gold and often includes meenakari. Jadau and Kundan overlap, especially in Rajasthan.
Types of Kundan jewellery
- Necklaces and chokers: Bridal favourites.
- Earrings and jhumkas: From small studs to heavy danglers.
- Maang tikkas and mathapattis: Traditional headpieces.
- Bangles and bracelets: Often with meenakari on the inner side.
- Complete sets: Necklace, earrings, maang tikka and sometimes rings.
Buying guide — what to check
- Backing and finish: Meenakari on the reverse suggests traditional finishing.
- Stone type: Confirm whether the stones are glass, semi-precious, polki or lab-created.
- Gold content: Kundan uses gold foil; check whether the base metal is silver, gold-plated, or gold-filled if seller claims real gold.
- Weight vs comfort: Heavy sets look grand but may be uncomfortable for long wear. Try them on.
- Seller reputation: Prefer certified sellers or known workshops to avoid misrepresentation.
Care and maintenance
- Store each item separately in soft pouches to avoid scratches.
- Avoid contact with perfumes, hairsprays and makeup while wearing Kundan.
- Clean gently with a soft, dry brush—do not soak in water or chemicals.
- For real-gold Kundan or pieces with polki, get professional cleaning periodically.
Styling tips
- Let a heavy Kundan necklace be the focal point—pair it with a simple saree or lehenga.
- Use a single statement piece (a choker or large studs) for a contemporary Indo-western look.
- Match meenakari colours with your outfit for a coordinated look.
Frequently asked questions
Is Kundan only for weddings?
No. While Kundan is common in bridal wardrobes, lighter designs suit festivals, parties and formal events.
Can Kundan include real diamonds?
Yes. High-end Kundan or Jadau pieces may use polki (uncut diamonds), which raises value and durability.
How long does Kundan last?
With careful storage and gentle cleaning—and avoiding chemicals—Kundan can last for decades and be passed down.
Does every Kundan piece have meenakari?
Not always. Many traditional pieces include meenakari on the reverse, but some modern or minimalist Kundan omit it.
Conclusion
Kundan jewellery blends historical technique with visible workmanship. Whether you choose a heritage bridal set or a modern lightweight piece, look for verified stone types, proper backing, and seller reputation. With correct care, Kundan remains a lasting choice for ceremonial and special-occasion wear.